The Wizards of Waverly Stone

Gastropub Reimagined

Sitting at the bar of Waverly Stone on a weekday afternoon, I found myself among a cast of characters that felt straight out of a small-town sitcom. Actor-bartender Michael Rene Walton moved easily between cocktail shakes and conversation. Around me were the parents of the owner, once proprietors themselves; a local regular; and a few out-of-towners whose kids were competing in a swim meet nearby. March Madness graced the screen, our eyes glued. At a large table behind me, diners conversed in what I initially assumed was French. Upon reflection, I’ve decided it was more likely Dutch. We were in downtown Holland, after all.

Point is, the broad mix of diners suggested the former 8th Street gastropub had entered a new chapter.

The spot became Waverly Stone Gastropub sometime after the Westerland family acquired it seven years ago, introducing their own brand of microbrews to Holland’s high street. In late 2024, they dropped the gastropub label altogether and rolled out a new menu that has been so successful that “We didn’t even have to lay off any employees over the 25–26 winter,” Walton said. For those not in the know, that’s a regular and accepted practice at Michigan coastal town eateries. Scale back and wait for summer.

So, what’s on the menu that’s drawing in the townsfolk as well as out-of-towners midday on a cold March afternoon?

A balanced menu that blends Mediterranean influences with familiar favorites: dolmas, kofta meatballs, stuffed artichokes, chicken gyros, regular gyros, pastas, salads, orzo risotto, and a variety of fish dishes. (Don’t worry — to the people who think all that sounds too complicated, you can still order one of the best smash burgers around.)

Owner Andrew Westerland said the new focus is on healthy, homestyle cooking: no seed oils, plenty of fish, and liberal use of beef tallow. “Almost everything here is now made with that in mind,” said Andrew. “More like we eat at home.”

The result is nothing short of magic, and the proof is on the plate.

Last July, my daughter and I enjoyed a stellar spot on the sunny patio, sipping white wine and sharing smoked fish dip before moving on to our entrees. She ordered the walleye, and I chose the chicken shawarma. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it rivaled any I’ve tried in the land of authentic Middle Eastern cuisine (you know — Detroit).

On my latest visit, I left my drink choice to Walton — “Sweater Weather” — a strong, delicious tonic-like cocktail. To counteract its potency, I ordered the Angus ribeye special, served with Hasselback potatoes and the crispiest, tastiest confit Brussels sprouts this side of Belgium. Winner, winner, ribeye dinner!

Andrew’s wife Margaret added her own magic with décor that’s warm, inviting, and complements the menu’s Mediterranean leanings. As a person whose job it is to be a foodie, I’m not easily impressed, but this trip to the gastropub that is no more made me happy to cheer: out with the old, in with the new… except the architecture and authentic tin ceiling. I like that. It’s the trademark of classy buildings of a certain era, and Waverly Stone wears it well.

Waverly Stone is located at 20 W. 8th Street in Holland,
open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. Closed Sunday.